(And Shot Information, below)
One thing to always keep in mind that all cats, need another cat or kitten for companionship. I don't sell to buyers, if they only want 1 cat or kitten in their home.
I will not sell to someone who plans on Mutilating the kittens or cats by Declawing or Tenotomy (Clipping Tendons).
What comes with each kitten at Pet price is always the 5-Generation Pedigree which I give out free with the kitten (CFA charges for 3 to 5 Generation Ped), Shots (see below), Kitten Information Sheet, Toxic Plant Sheet, Shot Records and the Business Card of mine. I am combining the spaying or neutering and microchipping in the price of the Pet kittens.
I found a Vet who will do early Neuterings and Spayings after 8 weeks old, but I will probably do it around 10 or 11 weeks old. Any kitten leaving my home will be neutered or spayed before going to their new home. If the kittens are 4 months or older, then my Vet requires the Rabies Shots at the time of neutering or spaying, these fees are your responsibility.
When the kittens are born, I ask that the people who were interested in the litter of kittens to come over and take a look after a week old and at that time they could put a Deposit down which is usually half down at that time. I usually ask them to sign a Sales Contract and a Deposit Agreement to send with the Deposit and neutering or spaying fee. Online I send a copy of Sales Contract and Deposit Contract, and ask that the person fill out both and send them back to me with the Deposit. I will finish filling them out and send one set back to to the person.
Later the people can come over to take a look at them and play with them, until they are ready to go home (Please, don't plan on coming over every week or every other day). I usually ask that the people give me a call and make an Appointment time with me and to keep to that time, so that they have some time to spend with the kittens and that way I don't have a lot of people from all over in the apartment at the same time (in the past it makes it too confusing trying to talk to everyone at the same time and I don't like that). Then when the kittens are ready to go, the people pay the other half of the money to pay off the kittens and take them home.
For the buyers who live too far away to come and see the kittens, I can always take a picture of the kittens and show you through an e-mail attachment or on my website (under Kittens Currently Available page). And if you are interested in a certain colour or sex of kitten, usually not both, then you can send me the Deposit (in a Money Order or Cashier's Cheque, no Personal Checks, made out to Kim Ghobrial).
When the are kittens spayed or neutered I will let everyone know about the neuter and spay fees when we get closer to the Birthing Date, that way if my Vet changes his fees from now to then, I won't feel stupid. Then 2 weeks before the kitten is to ship out, the last of the payment on the kitten, Shipping Fees, Carrier cost (unless you want to ship me an Airline Approved Carrier through UPS), Health Certificate will be due. We can discuss the Airlines that you want me to ship with and Flight times, just before the last payment is due, so we both know how much you need to send me.
If you are unable to keep the kitten or cat and I have to take the kitten or cat back, you cannot ever make a claim on the kitten or cat, and you cannot ask for reimbursement or a refund. The kitten or cat is then mine, to do as I please with, that means that I will eventually place the kitten or cat in a good home.
I take breeding very seriously and the people who would like to start breeding would have to come up with References. If you are wanting to breed the Burmillas, you ONLY breed to European Burmese or another Burmilla.
You have to become very serious about bettering the breed and this is not about bettering your pocketbook. You will not get rich off of breeding cats (or any animal), if you are to be concerned with the Health and Vigor of the Cats/Breed. If you do things right, you will be Importing in New Bloodlines (hopefully with the guidance of the more Experienced and Conscientious Breeders of the Breed). Realize that if you become a Breeder, these cats (or any other animal) are your Responsibility for the rest of their time with you and if you decide that this isn't what you want to do, after getting the kittens or cats, then you need to be responsible about altering them (neutering or spaying) and if need be, placing them into a very caring home. Also, remember, when problem crops up, you can ask any one of us questions and we can advise you on what to do. It is up to you whether or not you take the advise.
It is your responsibility to buy a holding cage which should be large enough for cats to walk around in; jump up and down without hitting their heads; have their toilet far enough away from Food and Water dishes, so not to contaminate their eating areas; so that you can Quarantine sick cats or kittens. Or to have an extra room to confine cats in, if you don't want to buy a cage. Sometimes you need to separate cats for many different reasons, one of them is that you don't want a female being bred or another is that you want a mom and her kittens away from the rest of the house and the other cats (sometimes this isn't good to separate mom and babies from the rest of the cats, if you want to bring up kittens underfoot and well adjusted).
When you sell kittens, you don't just sell to anyone, you have to make sure that they are Responsible and that they will be having a family member for 14 plus years and that these cats are not disposable. You need to make sure that you kittens will be safe and not be declawed or go outside. You need to be able to sell kittens or cats with Sales Contracts, Deposit Agreements and if you can't find a Early Neutering or Spaying Vet, you need to make sure that your Contracts are binding in any State that you sell kittens to. To me, it is less headaches to sell kittens or cats already altered and usually the Pet Buyers like the idea that they don't have to get the kitten or kittens spayed or neutered when they get them, so it is one less headache for them too.
You need to make sure that all your cats or kittens have routine Vet visits and take them if they are sick or not doing well, there are no excuses. You must trust your Vet, so do as Employers do and Interview the Vets, until you find someone who will work with you as a Breeder (not as a single Pet owner). As someone said, find a Vet with a Herd Mentality. I know this sounds funny, but it will be the best advise you can receive before you start, as most Vets only see Pet owners and will only treat your problem as you would only have one cat or dog and they really don't know what to do with Breeders.
You need to feed High Quality Cat Food, not Grocery Store Brand type Dry food, just because it is cheap. Cheap and Cats don't mix and you will come up with tons of problems. I feed Royal Canin Kitten Dry (while they are learning) and as they get older, I feed Blue Buffalo Freedom Chicken Indoor Dry, along with Canned/Tinned food per kitten and Raw meat to my cats. When I feed Raw, it is either chunked or ground Lamb from New Zealand or Australia (as either Lamb is not fatty) and sometimes I might give Raw ground Turkey to them (which we sanitize) and sometimes ground Hamburger.
This is only a bit of the whole picture of Breeding and the Responsibility to the cats or kittens, there are lots more things to think about, but I won't bore you here. You get the idea of what kind of goes into breeding.
For the kittens that are being shipped, the kittens will stay here until they have been neutered or spayed and get all the Shots (see below), before they are flown out to their destination. Airlines are now saying, that any kittens going as pairs, need to be under 6 months of age to stay in the same Carrier, any that are 6 months or older, need to be in 2 separate Carriers (dated 2-19-2004).Any kittens that are being Shipped, the cost of Airplane Fees (starts around $220.00 on up to about $300.00), Airline kennels & a Double Kennel cup (you can purchase 1 from Omaha Vaccine Company 1-800-367-4444 or http://www.omahavaccine.com and have it sent to me.), a Cat Bed of some sort and Health Certificates with Vet Fees (starts from $68.00 on up, depending on 1 or 2 kittens being shipped) are the Responsibility of the Buyer.
Kennels to buy (through Omaha Vaccine Co., add on for shipping):
To go onto http://www.omahavaccine.com
Then hit the Cat hyperlink.
Then go to Beds or Crates/Kennels under Pets.
1 single cat or kitten Ultra Vari-Kennel Small #04894 (Olive)
2 cats or kittens Ultra Vari-Kennel Medium #04894A (Denim Blue)
1 Double kennel Cup #48861
I also, suggest buying a bed to go inside the Kennel for the kitten or cat to be on.
Facts about Vaccinations
I have had problems with the Vaccinations over the years, that I've been giving them to my kittens. A long time ago, I was able to get the Panleukopenia (Distemper) "Only" Vaccine and that was the first Vaccination for the kittens. But the Company that use to make it, no longer makes the Panleukopenia any more, so I had to start using the 3-way Vaccines. The major Vaccine that I have used (up to the recent past) is an "All" Killed Vaccine, by Fort Dodge called Fel-o-Vac PCT. After having everything from Upper Respiratory (from the Rhinotrachetis, a Herpes Virus) and Calicivirus (Lesions on the tongue, a Herpes Virus) over the years, I decided to call the Vaccine Company and I talked to one of their Doctors, he told me that they know about the reactions that all the breeders have had with all of their Vaccines, but they were not going to change the Vaccines.
This is some more information about Shots:
"Think about it. Vaccines are developed by cultivating the virus in a warm moist environment. It is then altered to become killed or modified. To alter this state, a poison is introduced to the virus. The virus becomes modified live (sick) or dies. Then the substance is injected into a warm moist body. This is a perfect environment for the virus to recover, thrive or mutate into a worse virus. Don't forget that the body is also being injected with the poison used to kill or modify the virus. There is much harm that can come from allopathic vaccinations. The list of my personal experiences are: convulsions..... lethargy.... cardiac arrest.... high fever.... shakes..... mutation of the vaccination virus to FIP. I have read of blindness and hearing loss also." Rochelle
I found out from one Veterinarian who has researched the Calici Virus part of the Vaccines, that it really doesn't protect the kittens at all, in fact once the Vaccines go into the body, the Calici Virus mutates and causes a bad reaction to the kittens. There are lots of different types of Calici Viruses and anyone of those could hit a cat or kitten and there is no protection available.
Another Veterinarian told me that since the kittens have taken on the Mom's antibodys, the Shots that are given are rendered useless. Kittens don't really start having a decent Immune System until they are somewhere between 6 months to 1 years old, that if you decide that you have to Vaccinate not to start doing it until they are at least 1 years old and then every 3 years after that.
I decided that I couldn't let my babies go through another batch of Shot Reactions, so I'm now doing the Homeopathic Nosodes (pellets). Nosodes are the homeopathic equivalent to Vaccinations. They are given orally to the pet at home in a series of three potencies (30c, 200c, 1M) as follows (1 dose is 3-6 pellets):
1. 30c - one dose two times a day for one week
2. Wait two weeks
3. 200c - one dose once a day for one week
4. Wait one month
The remedies are most effective if administered into a clean mouth, but may be given in water if necessary. Try not to touch the pellets with your fingers, as it contaminates the remedy that are on the pellets.
One of the benefits of oral "Vaccination" with Nosodes (apart from its safety and absence of side-effects), is that protection can be provided at an early age.
What Nosodes cover:
Upper Respiratory Virus (Rhinotracheitis)
Feline Panleukopenia (Distemper)
Feline Leukemia (FeLV)
Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)
What Nosodes are like is that it is similar to a Poisonous Snake and Anti-Venom, they take the Viruses and make Anti-Viruses from it. It works better than shots in my opinion.
What I'm now doing and so far it is working.
What I've been doing and it seems to be working okay so far (knock on wood), is giving the Nosodes at 3 weeks old on, as described above. I do give the 1M about every 6 months and I haven't had any problems at all.
You don't need to give Rabies or FIP or Leukemia Shots to your cats, as they don't go outside and they can give Fibrosarcomas (Injection Site Cancers) to your cats or kittens.
Unfortunately, the Airlines do require the Rabies Shots for some States and if you are wanting a kitten to go to you and you are in a State which does require the Rabies, it must be given. So far, I have been having my Vet give the Canary type of Rabies Shot. The only reaction they get with the Canary type of Rabies is being a little quiet, there isn't any problems with Fibrosarcomas with it.
When buying from me, please make the Money Orders or Cashier's Cheques out to Kim Ghobrial and not Bes Cattery. This isn't a Business, it is a Hobby.
My Phone is: 503-427-0354 I do have an answering machine and I will call you back, if you leave a message.
If you have any questions about this, let me know.
Email me at: email@example.com
Pet Buyers Page
Kittens Currently Available
Retired Adults and Older Kittens